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Every corner of the island, from the hill country to the east coast.

Guides & stories

Practical writing about living in, moving to and travelling around Sri Lanka.

Getting Around Sri Lanka by Train, Bus and Tuk-tuk

travel · 3 min read

Getting Around Sri Lanka by Train, Bus and Tuk-tuk

The train is the reason to travel slowly here, the bus goes everywhere for almost nothing, and the tuk-tuk covers the rest. How the island's transport actually works.

Backpacking Sri Lanka: Routes, Budgets and Hostels

travel · 4 min read

Backpacking Sri Lanka: Routes, Budgets and Hostels

Small island, cheap buses, good hostels and a two-week loop that covers beaches, hill country and ancient cities. How to travel Sri Lanka on a backpacker budget.

Sri Lankan Food: What to Order and Where

travel · 3 min read

Sri Lankan Food: What to Order and Where

Rice and curry is a dozen dishes, not one. Hoppers, kottu, sambols, and the difference between Sri Lankan and Indian food — a guide to eating well on the island.

Ceylon Tea: How a Blight Made the Hill Country

travel · 3 min read

Ceylon Tea: How a Blight Made the Hill Country

The tea estates that define Sri Lanka's highlands are barely 150 years old, and they exist because a fungus destroyed something else. The story behind the landscape.

Colonial Sri Lanka: Portuguese, Dutch and British

travel · 3 min read

Colonial Sri Lanka: Portuguese, Dutch and British

Four and a half centuries of European rule left forts, churches, railways and a legal system. Here's how to read the layers — and where each one is still standing.

The Four Faiths of Sri Lanka

travel · 3 min read

The Four Faiths of Sri Lanka

Buddhist stupas, Hindu gopurams, a candy-striped mosque and Portuguese cathedrals — often on the same street. A traveller's guide to the island's religions and how to visit respectfully.

Kandy and the Temple of the Tooth

travel · 3 min read

Kandy and the Temple of the Tooth

The last kingdom to fall, a relic that conferred the right to rule, and the biggest procession in the Buddhist world. Kandy is where Sri Lanka's living tradition is most visible.

The Cultural Triangle: Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya

travel · 3 min read

The Cultural Triangle: Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya

Two ruined capitals, a rock fortress and a cave temple, all within a few hours of each other in the dry zone. Here's what each one is and how to see them without burning out.

A Short History of Sri Lanka

travel · 3 min read

A Short History of Sri Lanka

Two and a half thousand years of recorded history on an island you can drive across in a day — irrigation kingdoms, three European empires, and a country still writing its own story.

Wildlife and Safari in Sri Lanka

travel · 2 min read

Wildlife and Safari in Sri Lanka

Leopards, the world's largest gathering of wild elephants, and blue whales offshore — all on one small island. A guide to the parks and when to visit them.

Buying Property in Sri Lanka as a Foreigner: What Actually Applies

property · 2 min read

Buying Property in Sri Lanka as a Foreigner: What Actually Applies

Foreigners cannot buy freehold land in Sri Lanka. They can hold 99-year leases, buy apartments above the fourth floor outright, and own through a local company — each with real trade-offs.

Surfing in Sri Lanka: Seasons and Where to Go

travel · 2 min read

Surfing in Sri Lanka: Seasons and Where to Go

Warm water year-round and two surf seasons on opposite coasts. Where to learn, where to progress, and when each break is working.

Sri Lanka's Hill Country: Kandy, Nuwara Eliya and Ella

travel · 2 min read

Sri Lanka's Hill Country: Kandy, Nuwara Eliya and Ella

Tea estates, cool air, colonial towns and one of the world's great train journeys. A guide to the central highlands and how to travel between them.

Things to Do in Galle: A Local's Guide to the Fort and Beyond

travel · 2 min read

Things to Do in Galle: A Local's Guide to the Fort and Beyond

The Fort takes half a day. The rest of Galle — the beaches, the stilt fishermen, the tea country an hour inland — takes considerably longer, and most visitors miss it entirely.

The Best Time to Visit Sri Lanka: Two Monsoons, Explained

travel · 2 min read

The Best Time to Visit Sri Lanka: Two Monsoons, Explained

Sri Lanka has no single dry season. Two opposing monsoons hit opposite coasts at opposite times — which means somewhere on the island is always in season.

Buying a Used Car in Sri Lanka: What to Check Before You Pay

motors · 8 min read

Buying a Used Car in Sri Lanka: What to Check Before You Pay

Import restrictions have made Sri Lanka's used car market unlike any other — cars appreciate, mileage tampering is common, and the paperwork matters more than the test drive.

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